Ms Elleneous

Sussex Branch Trail Byram Twp. NJ

Every hiker has one trail that is their go-to, their dependable spot, the one they are loyal to, their tried-and-true trail that is always there for them to turn to. Even people that just occasionally hike have the place they are most comfortable with.  In my case it is a lovely little rail trail nestled in a small state park in Sussex County NJ. This 2 mile section of the Sussex Branch Trail stretching between Waterloo Road in Byram Township, NJ to Cranberry Lake, Byram Township, NJ is my first true love trail. The Sussex Branch Trail is converted from the Sussex Branch Railroad that originally ran through the area, serving the mining industry. The trail runs 18 miles through Sussex County, New Jersey. I have hiked most sections of it, but this section, in Allamuchy Mountain State Park, is the closest to my heart. This section’s main trail is a 4 mile hike out and back. It is 2 miles each direction with clear distance markers.

I began using this trail with my father at about 7 years old. We would walk or ride our bikes to the Cranberry Deli, get a drink and a treat, possibly swim in the lake, and then ride back. That was long before the park system made it the trail it is today. Back then it was overgrown, with only enough width for one bike behind the other – no wider than the mule towpaths of the Morris Canal found nearby. Nowadays you will find a broad path that is clear and easily walked by whole groups together. The trail is now maintained at the width of the rail bed. It is a very easy trail that is great for anyone. When my boys were babies I would even take my expedition stroller out on the trail.

Do not fret my more serious hikers. There is something for all on this trail. I would be bored to tears after years of just the main rail trail if that was all there was to offer, but there is more. The main trail has additional blazed and unblazed trails branching off of it all over. I believe that if you looked down on the main trail from above it you would see something like an gnarly old pine tree with all the side trails jutting out like crooked branches. You could spend days in this area taking different trails and turns. The trails wandering off of the main trail reach out and connect to other trails that can bring you to waterfalls, lookouts, boulders left by the glaciers, remnants of abandoned mines, and beautiful forest. They also connect over to other sections of Allamuchy Mountain State Park, Waterloo Village, the Morris Canal, and over to Deer Park in Hackettstown. An excellent map of all the trails in the area can be found under Allamuchy State Park on the Jersey Off Road Biking Association (JORBA) page at http://www.jorba.org. They have some of the best maps available and they are free PDFs.

What to Expect

Well the parking area is flat, large, and semi-paved. It is easy to find and easy to park. A warning though: in the summer months you can find it totally full at times with cars spilling out onto the sides of the road for parking. In the winter the parking area is often plowed after snow, making for good access to snowshoeing and cross country skiing. The first thing you will encounter is a bathroom. There was a very nice composting restroom that suffered some damage in a flood a few years ago and is now locked. Just past is a port-o-john that has replaced the damaged facilities. This is one negative about this stop. The port-o-john is poorly maintained and very poorly treated by visitors so it is almost always in a condition that I would rather not use. I really go out of my way to avoid using it but it is there for the brave or the urgent. As you begin your walk you will start to encounter side trails right away. There are too many to cover them all in this article, but I will most likely give each one its own deserved article over time.

You will spot a stream to your left and some swampy areas on both sides. The first major feature you will come upon is Jefferson Lake. The trail hugs very close to the shore of the lake and offers peaceful views. In the summer you can see water snakes basking in the sun, turtles on the logs and rocks, waterfowl enjoying their day, beaver dams, and other critters that relish the waters. In the winter you can walk out on the ice when it is safe allowing some interesting views looking back at the trail and allowing for some additional inspection of the shoreline. You will also see people ice fishing on the cold clear days out near the small island in the lake. The sun shines bright on the trail here and gives a moment to really bask in some rays during all seasons.

From the lake up to the next major feature of this trail you will find water on both sides of you. It is worth it to slow down and take a good look for birds and other water-loving animals. What you will arrive at next is a waterfall that attracts many visitors. It is small but very nice. You can get right up to it and even rock hop on the river just above it when the water level allows. That is my son’s favorite activity. Many visitors to this trail make this waterfall their main destination. It is less than a mile from the parking lot and makes a great little walk with a nice reward for anyone that just wants a stroll. The waterfall is delightful during all the seasons. I am pretty sure at this point I have photographed it during all seasons and all water levels.

There is a good number of people that do not continue on after the waterfall but there are more things to see and I certainly recommend continuing on. Beyond that spot you will pass a marsh on the right with excellent opportunities to view birds in the tall grasses. There are steep slopes covered in boulders to the right that have additional small waterfalls after it rains or when the snow melt. You may meet some deer, groundhogs, and bears along the way. (Yes there are bears. I encounter them often. There is bear information at the trail parking area and from the rangers. Take it, read it, know it, and respect that you should follow the suggestions.) Eventually you will make it to the second large concrete bridge that carries the trail over another area of the river. On the right the beavers have managed to almost fully block the water’s flow and have created a second lake-like area. This has flooded over old trails that you now need to go a different way to get to. On the left it runs out in a small river. Snakes frequently will sun on the concrete base here so keep an eye out.

The “cut” is the next landmark on the trail. A railroad cut is an area where the earth has been blasted away to allow for the tracks to continue straight. If you look closely at the rocks on either side you can find some of the holes that were drilled in the stones to allow for dynamite to be dropped in and blast away the earth.

After the cut, it is only a short distance until you reach the end of this section of trail and the parking area on the Cranberry Lake side. You will find the 2.0 mile marker on the right letting you know you have made it.

Anyone interested can continue on just a tad bit farther and walk up to Cranberry Lake. In the summer I will often go and cool off in the lake before heading back. On your way back make sure you take time to inspect the sights you may have missed on your way. Also, although it is barely noticeable on your way back you will be going ever so slightly downhill making the return trip a little easier.  So go get out there and enjoy it. If this isn’t the trail for you then go find your tried-and-true and treasure it!